Buyer's guide · Inspection

The used car inspection checklist, before you buy.

A used car can be a great buy — or someone else's problem you pay for. Most issues are findable in twenty minutes if you know where to look. This is the checklist to run before you hand over any money: body, engine, tyres, interior, a real test drive, and the paperwork that proves the car is what the seller says it is.

General guidance for buyers, not a substitute for a professional mechanical inspection. When in doubt, get the car checked by a mechanic you trust.

Before you go — do this first

• Inspect in daylight and only when the car is dry — water hides scratches, dull paint and dents.
• See the car cold. A seller who warms the engine first may be masking a hard cold-start.
• Carry the RC details and check the chassis (VIN) and engine numbers against the car in person.
• Note the registration number — you can verify ownership, age and pending dues on the Parivahan portal and via mParivahan.

1. Body & paint

Walk around the car at eye level and look down each panel. Consistent, even panel gapsare the sign of a car that hasn't been rebuilt.

• Panel gaps: uneven gaps around the bonnet, doors or boot suggest accident repair.
• Paint match: check panels in sunlight for a shade or texture difference — repainted panels rarely match perfectly.
• Overspray: paint specks on rubber seals, window trims or plastic cladding mean a panel was resprayed.
• Rust: check wheel arches, door bottoms, the boot floor and under the spare wheel.
• Flood signs: a musty smell, silt in crevices, fogged lights or rusted seat rails point to water damage — walk away.

2. Under the bonnet & engine

• Start the engine cold and watch the exhaust: blue smoke means oil burning, white smoke (that persists) can mean a head-gasket issue, black smoke means a fuelling problem.
• Listen for knocking, ticking or rattling at idle and as the engine warms.
• Check the oil cap and dipstick — a creamy residue suggests coolant mixing with oil.
• Look for fresh oil or coolant leaks on the engine and on the ground after it's been parked.
• Fresh underbody welding or cut-and-rejoined chassis members are a serious red flag.

3. Tyres, brakes & suspension

• Tyres: all four should wear evenly and ideally be the same brand/age. Uneven wear points to alignment or suspension problems. Check the manufacture date stamped on the sidewall.
• Suspension: push down hard on each corner — it should settle once, not bounce repeatedly.
• Brakes: in the test drive, the car should stop straight with no vibration, squeal or grinding.

4. Interior & electricals

Interior wear should match the odometer. A heavily worn steering wheel, shiny gear knob, sagging seat or worn pedal rubbers on a "low-km" car is a warning sign of a rolled-back reading — see our guide on spotting odometer tampering.

• Test every electrical: windows, central locking, AC (cools fast?), wipers, all lights, infotainment, music and reverse camera.
• Check for warning lamps on the dash at ignition that don't clear after start — especially the engine check and airbag lights.
• Smell for damp/mould (water ingress) and cigarette smoke.

5. The test drive

• Drive on varied roads at different speeds, not just around the block.
• Hands light on the wheel on a straight, level road — the car shouldn't pull to one side (alignment/accident).
• Gears should change smoothly; an automatic shouldn't jerk or slip. Clutch bite point shouldn't be right at the top.
• Listen for clunks over bumps (suspension) and a knocking on full-lock turns (CV joints).

6. The paperwork — verify before you pay

This is where most buyers get caught out. The car can be perfect and still be a bad buy if the papers aren't clean.

• Registration Certificate (RC): original, in the seller's name; chassis and engine numbers must match the car.
• Insurance: a valid policy, and ask about the No-Claim Bonus and any past claims (claim history hints at accidents).
• PUC certificate: a valid Pollution Under Control certificate.
• Loan closure: if the car was financed, the RC should be free of hypothecation, or you need a Form 35 from the bank confirming the loan is closed.
• Interstate car: ask for a Form 28 NOC from the original RTO if you'll re-register in a new state.
• Service history: a complete record both proves maintenance and lets you cross-check the odometer's progression.

Once you agree to buy, the ownership transfer itself runs on Forms 29 and 30 — we walk through that in the RTO ownership transfer guide.

Where to start your search

Browse verified listings by city — used cars in Mumbai, Pune, Delhi and Bangalore — or see all used cars.

Common questions